It appears out of nowhere: 7,000 feet above sea level, the remains of a volcano that erupted some 30 million years ago, powerful and dominant in the New Mexico desert that spreads around it. Located just 15 miles southwest of the small town of Shiprock, New Mexico, the rock formation seems out of place, alone and unchallenged in the landscape, making it the dominant feature of the country in all directions.
What makes the Shiprock Formation so unique is that it is one of the best examples of what is known as diatreme in America. When this huge volcano erupted, the lava interacted with water to form a carrot-shaped volcanic vent (diatreme). The uppermost layers of the volcano eroded over time, leaving behind the rocky mountain we see today.
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The name Shiprock comes from early pioneers who settled in the area. They believed the top of the rock looked like a nineteenth-century clipper.
Shiprock embodies an image that can only be defined as otherworldly, and has therefore been used as the setting for nine feature films that go back to the 1946 western My Darling Clementine with Henry Fonda in the lead role.
The legend
For centuries, the towering “rock with wings” has been sacred to the Navajo people, who call it Tse Bit ‘a’i.
A legend tells of the carnivorous monster birds that lived on the summit of Shiprock. One day a warrior killed two of the bird monsters and then turned one baby bird monster into an eagle and another into an owl.
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According to another legend, the mysterious Shiprock is all that is left of a giant bird that once brought the ancestors of humans from the northern territories to New Mexico. These original Navajos lived on the rock and would only descend to tend their crops below. Legend has it that one day when the men were down, lightning struck and destroyed the way back up. The women and children trapped above starved to death. The elders then forbid anyone to climb the Shiprock for fear of disturbing the spirits of the stranded.
Despite the legends, climbing grew in popularity in the 1930s and Shiprock became a highlight for many climbers looking to scale the steep sides. The stories of successful and failed attempts became legendary in the world of climbing and are documented in the book 50 Classic Climbs of North America. But an accident in the late 1960s paved the way for the Navajo nation to ban climbing in accordance with their beliefs. The rule still exists today.
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Visit Shiprock Today
Shiprock is more sacred than ever to the Navajos in 2021. No hiking, camping or climbing is permitted on the summit or the rock formations surrounding it. Driving on the dirt road leading to Shiprock is also prohibited. Visitors are encouraged to view and photograph Shiprock from a paved road, Indian Service Route 13, or US Highway 491. The Navajo community strictly monitors these rules.
The town of Farmington, New Mexico is a good place to find lodging and lodging while planning a day trip to Shiprock. The city is less than 30 miles east of Shiprock. From Farmington take US 64 west. As you approach US 491, keep left and continue for 7.1 miles. You’re looking for Indian Route 13. When you see it, turn right and continue another 12 km, then turn right onto IR 5010, which is a dirt road. Follow this another 3.5 miles to Shiprock.
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Professional photographers have written about the best ways to photograph Shiprock. From a lighting standpoint, the winter months are better than summer, but be aware that an abundance of wildflowers in June can provide a stunning and high-contrast foreground image.
Sunrise from the south is the best time to photograph Shiprock, although sunset is okay too, although the volcanic passages that emanate from Shiprock are not visible. With access so limited, some even suggest chartering a plane for aerial photography.
For more New Mexico inspiration, consider exploring New Mexico’s Alien Throne in Dream Valley and 17 Reasons to Include Ghost Ranch on your New Mexico vacation.
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